FR1 – Crystal Clear Epoxy Resin FAQs.
Please use our SMALL PROJECTS or LARGE PROJECTS calculator to find out how much FR1 epoxy resin you will need to buy for your project.
The ideal working temperature is 75°- 80° F. Stay below 75% humidity; otherwise, it will really slow down the drying time.
Temperatures below 75°F. will make mixing very difficult as well as create excess bubbles that cannot be removed. Before mixing make sure the product has acclimated to at least 75° F. (You can warm the epoxy but inserting container into a bucket of warm water. Water temperature should not exceed 120°F.).
The working time is about 25-30 minutes. However, make sure to pour the epoxy mix out quickly after mixing it completely. Do not leave in your mixing container too long because this will cause an accelerated chemical reaction due to the heat being generated, which will cause it to start smoking and cure faster.
Shelf life is 6 months, but after 3 months the hardener will start to darken. It’s still usable, but it won’t be as clear. For longer shelf life, keep in a cool, dark place and make sure the container is tightly closed. After storing for a long period of time, make sure to test a small quantity first before using.
Yes, to mix by weight you need to mix 100 parts resin to 86 parts hardener.
We recommend just using mild anti-bacterial soap and water. To avoid damaging the surface, DO NOT use any vinegar or harsh chemicals.
The dry time is 14 hours. However, we don’t recommend placing anything on the surface until after 48 hours. Since it is still delicate, we recommend using at least coasters for the first few weeks to avoid scratching the surface. The more time passes, the harder the surface gets and the more it resists scratches.
No. The epoxy should not be mixed with any other chemicals.
Yes, however, not all are compatible, so test a small quantity first.
No. It is very important that equal parts of the resin and hardener are measured out; otherwise, it will not properly cure after mixing.
After the epoxy has cured, you can apply a heat lamp about 18 inches from the surface for 2 hours, then 1 hour off, and then just one more hour on.
There’s a few ways to try to achieve this: The most preferred method is using a 4-0 steel wool & cutting oil in a circular motion. Another alternative would be to lightly scuff the epoxy first, then use an oil based polyurethane with either a semi-gloss or satin finish. A third option would be to use a rubbing compound such as 3M Imperial (tan beige in color).
If the copper surface is not already sealed, you need to seal it first using an acrylic lacquer (gloss spray only; regular lacquer will lift). When completely dry and it no longer smells like solvent, it is okay to do your first epoxy flood coat.
Due to thick viscosity nature of the FR1 Crystal Clear Epoxy Resin, we DO NOT recommend using pumps for this system. Use graduated cups for measuring & mixing.
We recommend using a water or alcohol based stain. The epoxy is not compatible with oil based stains and it will fish eye. If you used an oil based stain, wait at least 2 weeks for it to completely dry (preferably 3 weeks), then seal the wood with oil based polyurethane. Wait at least 48 hours after applying the polyurethane. Once it’s completely dry you can apply your first epoxy flood coat.
No, we don’t recommend using a drill mixer, stirring it too aggressively or whipping it. These mixing methods tend to create excessive air bubbles that cannot be removed with the flame/heat technique.
Clean graduated cups or tubs should be used for measuring and mixing. You can use the same measuring cup to measure out the resin and the same measuring cup to measure out the hardener. However, a clean mixing container should be used for each batch that is mixed. The used mixing containers can be cleaned the following day after the epoxy has cured, by cracking out the old epoxy and cleaning it for future use.
Re-coating can usually be done within 4 to 8 hours, when it is still tacky. No surface preparation is needed; the layers will bond together as one. If your previous layer has fully dried, very light sanding with 180 to 220 grit sandpaper is recommended to achieve a good bonding grip. After sanding you should wipe down with a solvent such as denatured alcohol or acetone to remove any impurities from the surface. (DO NOT use mineral spirits aka paint thinner). The wipe down process with the solvent should be done with a clean rag that will not leave any lint on the surface. Continuing cleaning until all sanding dust has been completely removed. After it is fully dry, you are now ready to re-coat. Don’t worry about sanding scratches. The next pour will fill in the scratches and it will look like glass again.
This product can be used to build up unlimited depths. Each flood coat should not exceed 3/16”. Attempting to pour thicker can cause the epoxy to generate excessive heat which in turn will cause more air bubbles, possibly cracking and shrinkage. It is advisable to wait at least 4 hours between pours to allow sufficient curing and cooling. While this product is considered clear by epoxy standards, it does have a very slight amber tone. This color is virtually unnoticeable in depths up to ½” thick. The color of the epoxy can become noticeable in greater depths especially over light colored surfaces.
Although this product will resist yellowing better than other epoxies it is NOT 100% UV resistant. Continuous outdoor UV exposure will eventually cause the finish to lose its gloss, cause gradual changes in color, and possibly warp.
For bar rails and edges, the flood coat can be allowed to run over the sides which will create a coating on the vertical edges. These edges will not create as thick a coating as flat surfaces so you must do your best with a brush to keep the material even. For underneath the edges, drips will form underneath the bar rail or edge, these drips can be sanded off once the epoxy has cured. If you catch the epoxy at just the right moment in the curing process a razor knife can be used to cut the drips off.
Objects such as pictures, articles and maps may be embedded in this product. Some thin paper items such as newsprint magazines must first be sealed with a white glue or similar product. This prevents the epoxy from penetrating the paper and causing a translucent effect. Alternatively, you can laminate thin paper in a plastic to keep the epoxy from coming into contact with it. Most photo quality paper does not require these extra steps. Once the papers are properly sealed they can be placed onto your project surface. Make sure your paper will lay flat before placing it. You should generally wait at least one hour after applying your seal coat of epoxy before placing the objects. Subsequent flood coats will then cover and embed these objects.
Wood, rocks, shells, bottle caps, coins, etc. may be embedded with this product. All porous objects must be sealed first; either with the epoxy itself or another type of sealer such as shellac, lacquer or polyurethane. If the objects are not properly sealed they will release tiny air bubbles which will form around the object during the flood coats. Placement of these objects may be done before you apply the first seal coat or they can be placed into a previously applied seal coat which has been allowed to set for 30 minutes. Lightweight items such as bottle caps should be glued down to prevent floating.
We general recommend allowing the epoxy to run over the edges of your surface. If your application calls for a temporary dam to be constructed it must be done with great care to insure it can be removed after the epoxy is cured. Ideally a smooth, soft or flexible plastic strips (like formica) should be used because the epoxy will not stick to it. Alternatively, wooden trim can be used but only if it is first covered with a 2 to 4 mil plastic sheeting. Lining the wood trim with the plastic and tacking it to the edge should prevent the epoxy from running in between the edge and the plastic. Testing on a small mock up should be done to insure no leakage or problems will occur with your damming technique.